Your garage door opener: You obviously have one to which you are adding this system. Do your homework and make sure it’s compatible before you buy. If you’re not positive, call or email them with your make and model numbers in hand. Mine is a Craftsman (Chamberlain) made in 1999 with the door sensors so I was good to go. NOTE: Garage door openers have a limit to the number of remotes they can support. My Craftsman supports 4 remotes. With two HomeLink-connected cars, the remote door opener, and the smart hub I am now at the max allowed by my opener. As a result, I had to decommission my "clickers". Do your homework and factor this into your plans.
The Door sensor: This sensor communicates with the smart hub using Bluetooth to indicate door operation and open/ closed condition. During installation it is paired to the smart hub which is best performed with the unit attached to a closed door between 3’ and 10’ from the smart hub. By design, Bluetooth distance is limited to 33’ but don’t count on consistent operation at this extreme end of the range. Consider this distance during installation and future operation.
Whether your garage door problem requires a replacement or repair of the door itself or any of its components, our technicians will be able to advise you on the most cost-effective and appropriate solution. We oftentimes get called for quick fixes of broken garage door springs, broken rollers and bent garage door tracks; repairs of garage door openers and cables; replacements of garage door drums and panels; insulation installation as well as tune-ups and inspection. Whatever is the prob-lem with your garage door, we can definitely handle it. Our team of technicians are highly trained and experienced in any type of emergency garage door service. Whatever the make or model, they will be able to diagnose the problem, offer you solutions and immediately fix the issues. They do it well and they do it fast. That’s A1 service for you!
Step 1: Check the metal tracks inside the garage. Look at the mounting brackets that hold the tracks to the walls. If they're loose, tighten the bolts or screws at the brackets. Working inside the garage with the garage door closed, examine the tracks for dents, crimps, or flat spots. If there are any damaged spots, pound them out with a rubber mallet, or with a hammer and a block of scrap wood. If the tracks are badly damaged, they should be replaced.
Instead, try other methods that might break the frozen connection between the door and the floor. For example, you can use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the ice and free the door. Standard de-icing products can also work. And if you are careful not to damage the door or the seal on the bottom of the door, you can use a flat shovel or similar tool to chip away at the ice.